"We live in the world when we love it. "
~ Rabindranath Tagore

It is said that the best tea in the world comes from India. It will not be too much of an exaggeration to say that the best tea in India comes from Darjeeling. Indeed to most of the dedicated tea drinkers in Britain, Darjeeling is synonymous with `Orange Pekoe' tea. For the senior generation,

Darjeeling will also evoke memories of the sahibs of the Raj spending the unbearably hot summers of the Indian plains in the cool and pleasant surroundings of hill resorts like Darjeeling. For today's Indians, among other hill stations, it is a place where the heroes and heroines of Indian masala films chase each other, singing romantic songs, amidst breath-taking scenery.

The railway was built in the days of the Raj, when the road up to Darjeeling was not really fit for transporting memsahibs and their offspring to their summer destination. Indeed, the steam locomotive and carriages must date a long way back, since no steam locomotives are being built in India anymore; and they are being retired from active service in whatever remote corner they may still be in. It can take anything between 8 to 10 hours depending upon whether the journey is uphill or downhill and on other variables like `rocks on the track'.

The same 90 odd kilometres between NJP & Darjeeling can be covered in less than 4 hours by taxi or jeep. The train winds its way at a modest 10 to 15 kms/hr. At times it is so slow that school children actually race it and win! Indeed, it is a journey the likes of which you are unlikely to undertake anywhere else in the world. When the train is going through some of the villages en route, it passes so close to the houses that you can actually pick off clothes from the clotheslines in the yards without leaving your seat! This is no exaggeration. School children frequently jump off the moving train, pop across the road to a sweet shop, and re-board the train a few minutes later. You can get off during one of the frequent stops the train makes, stretch your legs, take photographs or go and chat with the engine driver, guard or a local shopkeeper.

Darjeeling is some 6000 feet above sea level. It is situated on a ridge in a mountainside. Consequently, you tend to get short of breath quickly, at least on your first day here. The fact that the whole town is developed on steppes doesn't really help. Here, you don't walk to any place, you either climb up to it or climb down from it. The ubiquitous rickshaws you find everywhere else in India don't operate here because of the steep gradients. There is no local transportation to speak of and, as a result, you have to walk everywhere. You can go for local sightseeing trips by either a taxi or a shared jeep. But walking is a good way of exploring this small town. Apart from leading you to beauty spots you might miss by faster transport, it also helps keep you fit. If you have plans to go further north to Sikkim or go trekking, getting fit beforehand is a good idea.

While going about in Darjeeling, the mountains in the Himalayan range appear to be at a walking distance. The world famous Kangchenjunga peak, which appears to be just across another valley from Darjeeling station, happens to be in Sikkim! It is said that on a clear day, from Tiger Hill, you can even see the peak of Mount Everest on the far side of Nepal! Incidentally, Tiger Hill is the spot from where you observe the glorious sunrise over the Himalayas, weather permitting.

There are other local points of interest like the monastery at Ghoom, the school of mountaineering, the monument to Sherpa Tenzing, one of the first men to climb to the top of Mount Everest, along with Sir Edmond Hilary in 1953, the rope bridge leading to the valley below, and yes, a visit to a tea plantation. But this visit needs to be arranged on an individual basis, as it is not included in any of the local sightseeing tours.

Having done all this, and before settling down with your cup of `Orange Pekoe' or perhaps something a bit stronger, do spare about an hour to visit Ava's Art Gallery, about 1 km from Darjeeling station. The striking effects the lady has achieved through embroidery and painting on cloth are unbelievable. From Darjeeling, you can take a bus, jeep or taxi to Sikkim, go trekking locally, or even venture further north to Kathmandu in Nepal. The bus station is roughly 1 km. North of the railway station and jeeps or taxis will pick you up at your hotel.

How to get there:
By air from Calcutta or Delhi to Bagdogra and from there by taxi or jeep.

By train from Calcutta (Sealdah station) to NJP and from there by the `Toy Train' or by taxi or jeep.

From Siliguri by bus. You can get to Siliguri from NJP by taxi.

Accommodation:
Accommodation is available to suit all budgets but during summer months, advance booking is strongly recommended. Some of the hotels have agents operating from NJP. Your taxi or jeep driver will be able to direct you to one of these. If you are good at bargaining (a useful skill while travelling in India), you can haggle these fellows down quite a bit, especially during winter months.

I stayed at Hotel Red Rose, on 1 Laden la Road, which is less than 5 minutes walk from the railway station. It is new and quite comfortable. The rates were reasonable. It had no attached restaurant, at the time, but the Simla Restaurant and Bar nearby served delicious food.