Pilgrim Places
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"There is no journey of discovery greater than that of looking within"
~ Kiran Nagarkar (Cuckold) The Blue Mountain Express that cuts across the heart of Tamil Nadu from Chennai makes its final halt at Mettupalayam. I, however, get off at the previous station, Coimbatore Junction, and am on my way to a place that has caught my attention. At 5.30 in the morning, the nip in the air is refreshing. I breathe in deeply and am excited about this journey. Annapoorna, the goddess of food has cast her blessings and lent her name to an enormous chain of restaurants in this city. Not able to resist the wafting aroma of freshly brewed coffee, I pay my respects to the goddess. The breakfast is as good as her name suggests.
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'Isha Yoga Centre: 0.8 kms', the board reads. I pull my rucksack further up my haunches and start walking. It is a badly weathered dirt road; its bumps and trenches proof of the hard hitting rains in the forest area. The scent of the Eucalyptus tickles my nose and as I head further down the dirt road, the different scents of the forest has my olfactory organs in delight. I close my eyes and breathe deeply tucking the scent away into the crevices of my memory. At the end of the dirt road, a clearing leads up to a large open gate. The horizon is at hands' reach. A huge brick dome greets my eye and beyond it, the utter stillness of the Velliangiri hills that rest on the horizon beckons with an allure so strong that I cannot draw my gaze away from them. The temple dome calls me too, its silent invitation as irresistible as the call of the mountains.
I leave my bags and my shoes with a volunteer near the gates and proceed further to wash my feet under the cold water from the taps. The woman who greets me at the entrance is dressed in white and hands me a pamphlet.
I reach a vaulted tunnel at the end of the Parikrama and the tingle up my spine has taken a character of its own. It leaps and sings and I cannot move. There is something about this temple that demands your complete humility. A verse from K. Satchidanandan's poem, 'How to enter the Tao temple' flashes into my mind:
Don't lock the door.
Go lightly like the leaf in the breeze along dawn's valley. If you are too fair cover yourself with ash If too clever, go half-asleep. That which is fast will tire fast: be slow, slow as stillness. Be formless like water. Lie low, don't even try to go up. Don't go round the diety. Nothingness has no directions, no front nor back. Don't call It by name, Its name has no name. No offerings: empty pots are easier to carry than full ones. No prayers too: desires have no place here.
I am gently ushered into a crevice in the circular wall. I look around at the marbled floor, the triangular ventilators that run all around, the many similar niches that punctuate the wall, the magnificent huge dome and the cool Jalaseema, the water body, that surrounded the Dhyanalingam. An enormous feeling of quietness envelops me and I close my eyes. Not in prayer, not in entreaty or invocation. I feel my eyes brim with tears. They spill and pour and run down my cheeks and as much as my mind tells me to cut it out, they flow. My logic cannot fathom this strangeness. Yet I know when I open my eyes that nothing was, or ever will be the same as before.
The Dhyanalingam I learn is the distilled essence of yogic science. It is a wonder both in the physical and metaphysical senses. The physical aspects are tangible and perceptible by the sheer architectural and artistic magnificence of the Lingam and the temple. In the metaphysical sense, the Dhyanalingam is a Guru with an energy of tremendous proportions. Here, the transformation of an individual from the limited to the resplendent can happen in an instant. The monks who maintain the temple and call themselves Ishas tell me that the Dhyanalingam is not just another temple but a tremendous spiritual possibility. Its presence is not bound by time and space. It is also one of the few temples in India where women take care of its maintenance for 15 days of the month.
As the Velliangiri hills drench in the saffron sunset and I get on the last bus heading back for Coimbatore, I know that this is not my last journey here. The Dhyanalingam will always beckon me.
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Editor: Romola Butalia   (c) India Travelogue. All rights reserved. |